Finally, the sun is out with the spring. We go outside and enjoy the warmth of the sun rays while removing a few pieces of clothing. Beware! The rays are strong and many of us need to protect our skin from the UVs they contain.

The need for protection is multiple. Those rays increase the number of mutations occurring in our skin cells. With that comes an increase in the odds that one of those mutation will be viable for the cell and start a chain that lead to skin cancer. Reason number one. In addition to affecting the DNA of our skin, the UV rays also lead to pre-mature aging of the skin and other conditions. Reason 2 and 3 and...

Your skin microbiota is also affected by the sun, particularly by the UVB. In fact, researchers have discovered that the good bacteria of your skin are the ones mostly affected. Thus leaving the territory for the bad ones to take over and leading to increases in skin dysbiosis (imbalance) and acne and...premature aging! Full circle.

“The glow” of the aftersun is thankfully no longer so attractive, even for the younger ones. Good thing since it also brings pathologies and premature aging. Many chemicals are not so great to put on our skin and lead to other problems. When it comes to the chemistry of sun protection, it gets a bit tricky. So we hesitate. I know I have had so many conflicting emotions putting sunscreen on my kids! I wanted to protect them from the sun AND from the chemicals in the cream...

WHAT TO WATCH FOR ON SUN SCREEN LABELS:
NO NO NO ingredients: oxybenzone, octinoxate
NO NO ingredients: the regular NO NOs*
NO ingredients: homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene
*paraben, fragrance, BHA, BHT, some PEGs, methylisothiazolinone, etc...

Dermatologists recommend protection for the skin. Even if some of the formulation used may affect other organs, other functions. Endocrinologist and Oncologist would not necessary recommend the same products as do dermatologists. They base their recommendations on the potential risk of developing other diseases. Certain molecule developed to block the UV rays may also lead to some types of breast cancer and infertility. As the molecules (called endocrine disruptors) get absorbed in the body, those that mimic hormones impend proper hormonal functions.

The use of yet other chemicals in sunscreen may also in itself cause aging. Parabens, specifically methylparaben, when applied on the skin, reacts with UVB and sensitizes the skin. Those rays are nasty, nastier even with some chemicals.

When it comes to sun protection, there is really 2 strategies. You can either block the UV rays physically or chemically.

The law of Physics: no chemical reaction involved here, just an element that reflects the UV rays and prevent them from touching the skin. They reflect the light. Loose clothing and a hat will do the work. Some inorganic compounds also do that. The 2 minerals (inorganic chemical compounds that are considered natural) that are safe to use in a cream are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These minerals should not be inhaled so prefer creams over sprays even if they get messy!

Chemistry: The double bonds of the chemicals absorb the UV rays (some absorb only UVBs so use a broad spectrum product that has molecules that absorb both UVA and UVB). All of these molecules are synthetic. They are man made through the chemistry of carbon chains or organic chemistry and as such are called organic products...but not natural at all! Nomenclature is as tricky as the chemistry of sun screen...

Some molecules such as oxybenzone absorb both UVA and UVB but since they are also endocrine disruptors, you will want to avoid. Oxybenzone and octinoxate have also been banned from water-resistant products in some regions as it degrades the coral reef.

Why have they not been ban for use in skin care? Well for one, it is hard to ban a compound as the evidence needs to be quite substantial in order for countries to commit. And for two, the risk of not using sunscreen may be bigger on our health than the risk of using one that contains unsafe chemicals. What we can do is stay away from the chemicals that have raised most concerns such as those in the table.

The UV filters with the lowest safety concerns are: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, avobenzone (although there are risks of skin allergy) and Mexoryl SX (terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid).

Happy label reading and cream spreading!